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Cask conditioning
My equipment
Beer & Lager options
Making lager from a kit
Lager kit progress
Barrelling the Lager kit
The Finished Lager
Wine making options
Making wine from a kit
Wine kit progress
Filtering the wine
Bottling the wine
Labelling the bottles
The Finished Wine
All Grain Recipes
All Grain Brewing Introduction
All grain equipment and sterilising
Dry Yeast Starter
Splitting a Whitelabs yeast
Fermenting the Whitelabs yeast
Bottling and storing the Whitelabs yeast
Whitelabs yeast starter
Water Treatment
Sparging Options
Fly Sparging
Batch Sparging Calculations
Batch Sparging
Cask conditioning
The finished beer
Storing my brews
General Information
My previous brews

This page will show how I cask condition my brews.

Regardless whether I brew a beer or lager from a kit or an all grain brew, if I intend to bottle a brew I always cask condition the brew for 10-14 days before I bottle it.  This allows the brew to clear up and mature, this is especially recommended for an all grain brew, the hop bitterness in particular will have a harsh flavour, if you transfer it straight into a bottle and seal the bottle with a crown cap you will trap this harshness in your finished brew.  This method will prevent this from occurring.  I use a 5 gallon budget pressure barrel fitted with a pressure relief valve for this stage.
As I mentioned on the previous page I am aware that the brew is still fermenting slowly, I prefer to cask condition the brew at this stage to allow a layer of Co2 to build up fairly quickly.  This will prevent the brew from becoming stale.

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The first step is to sterilise and thoroughly rinse with cold water the budget barrel, cap, and the plastic tubing used to transfer the brew. When this is done, I push the tubing onto the tap on the fermenting bucket, the tubing reaches the bottom of the budget barrel, you will also see in the above photo that I have only partly opened the tap, this allows the brew to be transferred slowly, also preventing aeration occurring. 


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While the brew is transferring, I prepare the cap by giving the "O" ring and the screw threads a coating of Vaseline or petroleum jelly.  This helps to give an airtight seal and make the cap easier to remove when the barrel is empty.


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After 24-36 hours, I gently pull back the pressure release seal on the valve as shown above, this purges the air from the barrel also preventing oxidisation, although at this stage the risk is minimal, prevention at the transferring stages is more important.  I repeat this 36-48 hours before I intend to bottle the brew; I also remove the valve seal at this stage.  This makes the brew easier to bottle as it reduces the foaming which may occur if the beer is too lively.


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I also take a hydrometer reading at this stage, I took a reading of 1007 as shown in the above photo, after correcting my hydrometer reading the gravity of the brew is 1009.  The brew is clear and has been left for 13 days to mature and it is now ready for bottling.


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I dissolved 60g of sugar in a small amount of boiling water, allowed to cool and added it to the cask as shown in the above photo and then I re-fit the cap on the cask.  This was added about 12 hours before the brew was bottled to allow the sugar solution to thoroughly mix with the brew.  I do not normally use finings in my bottled brews, if you wish to use finings; this is the stage when they should be added. 

Please go to the next page, bottling.

Next Page

All the information given on this website is from my own personal experiences and are well tried and tested.  However, if you try something you have seen here and it does not work out, I accept no responsibility for any loss, damage or injury that may occur.